How To Buy Unfinished Hardwood Flooring

Think of unfinished hardwood flooring like a blank canvas. You can make it look any way you want.

Using unfinished hardwood in a home or commercial project will provide the most flexibility in making your floor unique that meets your exact specifications.

We have compiled a master list of the essentials to consider when choosing unfinished hardwood flooring. While this list is comprehensive and covers most of the typical options people consider, there is always the ability to go even further to create something truly custom.

Traditionally, wood floors are made from a solid piece of 4/4 or one-inch lumber. Lumber is harvested from trees and kiln dried to between 6-9% moisture content. The lumber is then milled with a tongue and groove, resulting in a flooring plank that is nominally 3/4″ thick. Other thickness options include 1/2″, 5/8″, and thicker, but 3/4″ is the industry standard thickness for most unfinished flooring.

Recently, engineered unfinished flooring has become more popular with the quality of these floors surpassing those of solid flooring. Instead of using one solid piece of lumber for each flooring plank, lumber is cut into thinner veneers ranging from 2mm to 5mm.

Veneers are then bonded to a plywood core which gives the flooring exceptional stability. The thickness options vary from 1/2″, 5/8″, or 3/4″. Many times, engineered unfinished flooring comes pre-sanded so that only minimal sanding is required once the planks are installed. This can speed up installation time and result in a highly durable floor that looks identical to a solid hardwood floor.

An important choice for aesthetics is board width. Unlike the thickness, you will see the floor surface every day. 

An important consideration is that the wider the plank– the more significant its potential movement. When exposed to extremely dry environments, wider plank floors can gap more significantly. In humid summer heat, they can expand and cup more than narrower boards.

Another trend is to combine board widths in sequential patterns. A repeating row pattern: 3-1/4″ – 4″ – 5″ is typical, but a disordered pattern install may also be done. There is no limit to how many widths can be used, but two-five widths covers most requests.

The length of flooring boards can affect the appearance of the floor. An abundance of short boards can appear busy especially when it’s also a lower grade with knots. Longer length boards are impressive with many fewer end joints which contributes to a cleaner more uniform appearance.

Our talented sales team works with various flooring mills to specify minimum, maximum, and average board lengths for a floor. For example, a 2 – 10′ length, 5″ wide Rift & Quartered White Oak floor can be a great way to tailor a project that brings a unique look to a home.

This type of cut is the most common of all other ways of milling lumber. Plainsawn or flat sawn lumber indicates that the log is cut so that the annular growth rings of the tree are 30 degrees or less to the face of the board plank. This results in an oblong swirling “cathedral” grain pattern on the face of the board.

Many times Rift sawn and Quarter sawn lumber is mixed to generate more material. This combined product is marketed as “Rift & Quartered” or “R&Q” flooring. This is a common way to get a beautiful grain pattern at a slightly better price than either quater sawn only or rift sawn only. Rift & Quartered flooring has the added benefit of being more dimensionally stable than Plainsawn.

Because the grain is close to vertical to the face of the board, any expansion or contraction of the flooring board due to moisture tends to be directed vertically rather than horizontally. This can help a Rift & Quartered floor to not gap or swell like a Plainsawn floor would.

Quarter Sawn: Quarter Sawn boards are cut resulting in the end grain at a 60-90 degree angle to the face of the board. At this angle, the grain appears in very straight lines and the medullary rays in the lumber are bisected to produce a stunning fleck or wave pattern on the face of the board. Antique furniture from 100 years ago is replete with this look.

Rift Sawn: Rift Sawn boards are cut so the end grain is at a 45 degree angle to the face of the board. This produces a beautiful linear grain pattern and is the least efficient (and most expensive) methods of cutting logs.

A growing concern among some is the density or hardness of a species. Problems with flooring dents and gouges have contributed to this concern. Density is measured by the Janka scale. The higher the number, the denser (or harder) the wood. Oak, hickory, maple, cherry, walnut and mesquite are all suitable hardwoods for flooring. Hickory, maple, and mesquite are considered very hard, while walnut and cherry are on the lower end of the scale. Red oak, ash, and white oak are considered average.

Since there is no universal standard for all species, grades can often be confusing. Grades only deal with the appearance of a floor, not the hardness, packaging, or quality. 

Flooring manufacturers are allowed a percentage of milling defect in the flooring they produce. As a result, some of these boards with defect may unusable and need to be discarded during the installation process. Because wood flooring is a natural product, some defects can be expected, even in the cleanest grade.

Additionally, depending on room layout and the angle of installation, some footage is lost. The more cuts to start or finish a row, the more flooring will be used. For these reasons, depending on the grade level, an average of 5-10% extra footage is commonly ordered on each flooring project.

For patterns or installation on a diagonal, an additional 5-10% waste factor should be figured in for a total of 15-20%.

There is no single standard for all species hardwood flooring grades that all mills follow. The National Wood Flooring Association governs the NOFMA standards for primarily oak grades. Being a NWFA/NOFMA certified flooring mill provides the primary standards for oak flooring. You can find more information here.

Some flooring mills have developed their own proprietary grades that meet or exceed the NWFA standards. A mill’s reputation carries a lot of weight with some being known for their quality more than others.

Hickory and Maple grade names are different from Oak. The top grade is referred to as 1st Grade (instead of Select & Better).

Color is not considered a defect in Hickory, Maple or Birch. Even the highest grades can include color variation, unless it is specifically requested otherwise. This isn’t possible with Hickory, as all Hickory lumber has a natural “calico” appearance.
MFMA standards govern these grade distinctions for maple manufacturers.
1st Grade – Free of any defects, may include an occasional small pin knot. This is the highest standard grade for Hickory, Maple and Birch.

2nd Grade – Distinct color variation and varying wood characteristics, including mineral streaks, knots, and stained sapwood.

3rd Grade – Includes all the natural variations of the species, but still result in a sound and serviceable floor.

Rustic / Tavern
This rustic product is actually not a specific grade. It refers to anything that doesn’t fall into the other grades. It is usually a mix of leftovers from other grades. Rustic floors can have an unlimited amount of defects. But, if installed, handscraped, and dark stained can be a stunning floor full of character.

North American Walnut is a rarer species than other domestic lumber types and typically has its own grading rules. North American Cherry has very similar grading rules to Walnut, with the exception that Cherry is not normally available to be steamed.

Select Grade – Expect natural color variation between heartwood and sapwood. Will also include some knots, checks, and pin holes in the wood.

No. 1 Common – Prominent color variation between the heartwood and sapwood, along with natural and machine produced defects, including knots, edge indentations, blotchiness, and pin holes.

No. 2 Common – Features all the natural characteristics and defects of the species.

An important element of wood flooring to consider is the region from where the lumber is harvested. The geography and climate of North America has a great affect on how trees grow, and on how the finished product will look.

Northern Region
Mills that harvest lumber from Northern forests take advantage of the slow growing cycle for trees. This results in a much tighter grain pattern and more even color appearance. Northern lumber is considered a premium product for unfinished wood flooring.

Appalachian Region
The majority of hardwood production comes from this central region of the United States. The growing season is slightly longer and the geography and soil composition allows forests to be harvested sustainably. The appearance of Appalachian lumber will have a good natural variation of color, grain, and other characteristics.

For some floors, bevels are added to edges of the flooring planks. This is primarily done for aesthetic reasons.

Historically, unfinished hardwood flooring boards were not milled on the ends and would be installed with wooden pegs in holes that were drilled at the end of each board joint. These pegs became a “style” that many desired to replicate in modern unfinished flooring by drilling a space to insert a small wooden dowel.

For those wanting to take it to the next level, consider a pattern layout that can accent a formal room or library with a unique and customized style just for you.

Few things are more stunning than a custom made medallion as the centerpiece of a room, except when the room is bordered with a corresponding themed inlaid pattern. These options highlight the beauty and flexibility of woodwork and craftsmanship that can turn an average floor into a masterpiece.

The finishing touches are important for any space with wood floors. One of the easiest ways to make your floor pop is by replacing in-floor metal vent covers with real wood vents that match the flooring.

A wood staircase can function to bridge or connect two design elements in your home. Carpeted stairs detract from the symmetry and beauty of the hardwood floors installed upstairs and downstairs. Staircases not only compliment the flooring but with some customization can be a design feature in themselves. Whether a complimentary piece or the main centerpiece of your home, give some thought to what a matching staircase means to you.